What’s not to love about a diet where you can eat out and still lose
weight – or at least not appear to gain any… Still the same weight I was before and after our holiday, last
night we dined at Sally Clarke’s, Kensington Church Street. The restaurant had
been closed for five weeks over summer for a major refurb – new kitchen, new dining rooms, Lucien Freud art... the lot. We didn’t know this when we booked, and our table last
night – three nights after the restaurant reopened its doors – came with a new “soft
opening” fixed price menu, £29.50 for three courses.
Sally Clarke’s reputation is built on her love of delicious fresh, well
sourced seasonal ingredients, and, with our aperitifs, we both nibbled on divine
“pizzette” - actually triangle
slices of flaky pizza with squash and taleggio -- before launching into a
wonderful salad of mozzarella with slivered runner beans (not a string or
tough bit to it) and toasted cob nuts. Then I had plump Cornish plaice with
tomatoes, coco beans and spinach, followed by a deconstructed strawberry and
blackberry trifle. My only regret – I wish I’d chosen the dark chocolate
tartlet that lost the toss-up to the trifle! I didn’t know it was going to be
deconstructed and what this meant, on the plate, was a strange arrangement of crème
anglaise, cream, berries, and chunks of dry cake. The whole point of a trifle –
I think – is that the cake becomes drenched in sherry and fruit… Some things
are too good to mess with!
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