As a student in
Paris, I remember a friend hissing across the table that the tasty steak I was
tucking into didn’t come from a cow – “it’s horse!” he said. “How else could
the campus afford to put it on their refectory’s subsidised menu?”
The story went
that, if the meat was called “steak” on the menu, it was probably horse. If it
was beef, it would have been “steak de boeuf”.... Who knows? I’m afraid I
haven’t thought much more about it until now – 30 years on.
In case you’re wondering,
yes, I did finish my meal – it tasted fine to me!
The other story
was that, if a restaurant or butcher sold horse then it would display a
horseshoe over the entrance. I don’t think it’s that unusual.
The point is,
there is nothing wrong with eating horse per se. It’s common practice in many
countries.
But in the UK,
though we eat deer without flinching, horse is as much a taboo as dog or cat...
What matters most
in the current horsemeat scandal is the deceit. For it seems unlikely that the
horses illicitly making their way into our long and tangled processed food
chain are specially bred for their delicious meat.
So where do they
come from?
One poor woman
told the Sunday Times how she was duped into parting with two of her cherished
pet horses – who subsequently ended up as meat somewhere. They had been
previously treated with drugs that should make them unsuitable for human
consumption. But their horse passports had been faked, and the drugs were not
mentioned on the new documents.
While we all want
cheap food when we can get it, we also want to know that what we are eating is
good and honest.
It has been
pointed out by many that sugary fizzy drinks are more of a risk to our health
than a bit of horsemeat, and I’m sure that if we had a culture for eating
horse, and our meals were labelled accordingly, we would happily tuck into it.
But, being poor
doesn’t have to mean eating substandard food. Buying cheap but genuine cuts of
meat and being more creative with pulses and vegetables can make eating
economically a viable option for everyone.
We all have to
remember that included in the price of our bargain processed meal is not just
the price of the meat but also the cost of running the factory in which it was
made, the wages for the staff who made it, the box it went into, the lorry that
brought it to your supermarket – and a profit for both the shop and the
manufacturer... If we are expecting quality meat in the process, we have to ask
ourselves how that can ever be possible.
In my next blog I
will pass on some of my money saving ideas for easy home cooked meals...
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